Leather lexicon

Welcome to our leather lexicon: discover why high-quality leather has stood for durability, natural beauty, and timeless style for centuries. Here you’ll find compact knowledge about origin, processing, care, and the many leather types—so you can choose the right favorite piece and enjoy it for a long time.

Basics

1.1 Origin

Every leather product starts with an animal whose hide forms the so-called leather skin. Mainly, farmed livestock such as cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, and horses are used. There are also wild animals like deer, buffalo, snakes, crocodiles, and kangaroos whose hides are used for leather. For livestock primarily raised for meat, the hide inevitably falls off as a by-product. This creates a sustainability that is hard to match today.

1.2 Sustainability

As described under 1.1 Origin, hides are a by- or waste product of animal husbandry. The leather skin is therefore a renewable and sustainable raw material. Around 7 million tons of skins and hides arise annually, which would have to be disposed of in an environmentally harmful way without the leather industry. The renewal cycle (due to livestock farming) is between 1–5 years.

1.3 Leather skin

The decisive factor for leather quality—just as described under “Origin”—is the hide itself, whose properties mainly depend on the animals’ living conditions. Nutrition and climate are the most important factors. Temperate climates with sufficient food and water ensure high quality. In farmed animals, the risk of injury is lower than in wild animals, which affects hide damage. Because leather skin is a natural product, every leather surface is unique and individual—this defines the end product. A distinction is made between wild hides (from wild animals) and “tame hides” from farmed animals.

1.4 Keratin

The most important component of animal skin; it forms the outermost layer of the epidermis.

1.5 Harvesting

After slaughter, hides are salted to protect them from decay. Before tanning, the salt is washed out in the soaking process. This is followed by liming in pits or drums, then a bath with sulfur and lime compounds to open the hide structure, ensuring later softness. Next comes unhairing, where the upper side of the hide is freed from hair and the underside from flesh. The hide thickness is now 3–4 mm. To reach 1–1.8 mm for later products, it is split. The top layer is the grain leather with the typical structure; the lower split leather is used as lining or for non-visible parts.

1.6 Unhairing

This step removes hair from the animal hide. The hides are placed in a mixture of lime and a sharpening agent such as sodium sulfide.

1.7 Pelt

Term for the hide after unhairing when hair on the top and flesh and fat on the underside have been removed.

1.8 Softening (Levantining)

Also called levantining; it refers to the process of making the leather more supple and highlighting the grain.

1.9 Craquelure

A technique to create a fine network of cracks on surfaces for an antique or aged look, often using crackle lacquer.

1.10 Soaking

Soaking is the first production step in leather making. The hide is rehydrated in a water bath to restore original moisture.

1.11 Bating

Bating makes the fibers more receptive to tanning agents as another production step in leather making.

1.12 Tanning

In tanning, the hide is made durable and flexible using tanning agents. The process stabilizes the material and removes putrefactive substances by binding vegetable or mineral tanning agents. Natural, chemical, and newer synthetic tanning are distinguished and often combined.

1.13 Vegetable tanning

If leather is tanned with plant-based agents, it is called vegetable leather.

1.14 Babooltree tanning

A plant-based tanning using the bark of the Babool tree, which grows in India and Africa.

Tanning agents

1.15 Mechanical processing (staking)

The elastic behavior of leather is adjusted by stretching and pulling—staking.

1.16 Pre-drying

Describes the pre-drying process of leather.

1.17 Nailing

Used to dry leather, applied up to twice in production. The goal is to avoid bulges and wrinkles.

1.18 Engraving

Emblems or lettering are usually engraved with a laser, creating a depression in the material.

1.19 Finishing leather

Finishing refers to the final steps in leather production.

1.20 Tensile strength of leather

Tensile strength indicates when leather will tear under tension. The higher the tensile strength, the more robust the material.

1.21 Lightfastness (UV resistance)

Lightfastness depends on the tanning method, the dyes used, and the material’s pH.

1.22 Water resistance

This refers to resistance against moisture penetration. Products may be labeled water-resistant, but that does not guarantee complete protection from absorption.

1.23 Leather scent

As a natural product, leather is often perceived as pleasantly scented. Depending on tanning and dyeing, the scent can be stronger. If the smell is bothersome, airing, conditioning, or wrapping in newspaper (which absorbs odors) can help.

1.24 Neutralization

In this step, chrome-tanned leathers are deacidified.

1.25 Leather allergy

There is no direct allergy to leather itself. However, sensitive skin may react to tanning or dyeing agents.

1.26 Fatliquoring

Fatliquoring is re-fattening after dyeing. The oils protect the color layer and increase elasticity.

1.27 Grain defects

As a natural product, leather may show grain imperfections; these are not product faults.

1.28 Dyeing

Dyeing should achieve the desired color and ensure color fastness. Even with heavy use, the color impression should remain. The dyeing method depends on leather quality and desired look. To achieve fastness, hides are often pre- or through-dyed during tanning, so later wear is less visible.

1.28.1 Dyeing through tanning

Vegetable-tanned leather has a brownish hue. Chrome-tanned leather has a bluish base color.

1.28.2 Aniline dyeing

Transparent aniline dyes (tar dyes) let the natural grain remain visible. They are derived from coal tar and penetrate deeply.

1.28.3 Pigment dyeing

Consist of insoluble fine powders (pigments) dispersed with a binder. High lightfastness, coverage, weather resistance, and brilliance characterize them. Due to coverage, they fill and smooth rough surfaces and even out irregularities.

1.28.4 Saffron dyeing

A vegetable dyeing method using the saffron dye.

1.28.5 Finished

To make smooth leather water- and dirt-resistant, a color or protective layer is applied.

2 Genuine leather vs. faux leather

2.1 Genuine leather

Genuine leather is robust, durable, and breathable, made from animal hides. Its unique mix of tensile strength, flexibility, and suppleness makes it an ideal natural material. Tanning and treatments modify the surface, making it water-repellent (smooth leather) or velvety (suede).

Not every leather may be labeled genuine leather. There are specific regulations: genuine leather comes from unsplit or split hides retaining natural fibers and grain. Materials that are dissolved, ground, or mixed with binders are not genuine leather. If a coating exceeds 0.15 mm or one-third of total thickness, it must be labeled coated leather.

2.2 Faux leather

Faux leather is a budget-friendly alternative, usually a textile base (polyester or cotton) coated with plastic (often PU or PVC). Increasingly, bio-based layers are used. It’s easier to care for but less durable and inherits the negative traits of its coating (non-breathable, brittle).

Due to physical differences, faux leather cannot be declared or sold as leather. Also called “Skai,” “Pelliccia artificiale,” “Vinyl,” or “Piel artificial.” Because of cost and natural hide imperfections, faux leather has long been used as an alternative. Today, high-quality faux leathers can be hard to distinguish, used for furniture, clothing, and car interiors. However, in breathability and water permeability, faux leather falls short of genuine leather—though it is cheaper.

2.3 Distinguishing features

Distinguishing features

2.4 Density of leather

The physical quality characteristic of leather; denotes specific weight.

3 Leather types

3.1 Nubuck leather

Created by lightly sanding or brushing the grain side. The result is a premium leather known for velvety touch and smooth texture. Strength and longevity of full-grain leather remain fully intact.

3.2 Nappa leather

A premium leather (often calf or lamb) with a soft, natural surface. Usually finished with aniline for a smooth texture—ideal for handbags and wallets.

3.3 Suede or velour (suede)

Made from the lower split of the hide. After splitting, it is sanded, yielding a velvety texture. The surface is warm, soft, and natural-looking.

3.4 Aniline leather

The grain is fully exposed and visible. A thin transparent aniline layer protects the skin. Among full-grain leathers, aniline is the highest quality, using only the best hides.

3.5 Semi-aniline leather (corrected grain)

Unlike aniline, a light pigment layer is applied. The surface becomes firmer and more even as pigments fill irregularities. The even surface improves resistance to liquids, stains, and scratches.

3.6 Split leather

The lower layer of the hide, mostly used for non-visible applications.

3.7 Rough leather

Umbrella term for leather with a velvety surface. The surface is sanded or buffed. Fine nubuck or coarser velour are typical.

3.8 Full-grain leather

A smooth leather from the split. Natural grain with small irregularities is preserved. It must not be sanded, brushed, or smoothed.

3.9 Brushed smooth leather

A refinement with a color layer. Very durable with an extremely uniform surface—can be matte, glossy, or lacquered, popular for shoes or belts.

3.10 Patent leather

Multiple layers of color and lacquer create a shiny, mirror-like surface; the end product may also have a “crumpled” look.

3.11 Bridle leather

A vegetable-tanned leather with a brown hue; fat content 4–10%.

3.12 Metallic (laminated) leather

Finished with metallic pigments or foils to make it shine—ranging from subtle sheen to reflective.

3.13 Lizard-embossed leather

Texture is pressed or rolled into cow or goat hides to mimic real lizard leather; durability surpasses real lizard.

3.14 Embossed leather

As with lizard-embossed leather, plates or rollers press a pattern into the hide. Snake, crocodile, ostrich looks can be imitated; also creative surface patterns or emblems.

3.15 Vintage, antique, or aged leather

These hides are intentionally finished to look aged or worn. Strength and durability remain, regardless of the rustic or vintage aesthetic.

3.16 Oiled and waxed (pull-up) leather

Either a wax coating is applied or oils/fats added during tanning. Both create an aesthetic effect that lightens when bent or pulled; more pronounced with waxed than oiled leather.

3.17 Hand-polished (hand-buffed) leather

Dyed by hand with dyes (often aniline) using traditional techniques. Very intense color with a natural look.

3.18 Latigo leather

Made by combining vegetable and chrome tanning. Merges the benefits of both: softer than purely vegetable, stiffer than pure chrome. The result is water-repellent, durable, and very robust.

3.19 Goat leather

Known for suppleness, fine structure, and durability.

3.20 Crust leather, bark, or bark leather

Leather dried after tanning but not yet dyed.

3.21 Wet white

Term for wet, synthetically tanned leather still in production.

3.22 Wet blue

Wet chrome-tanned leather still in production.

3.23 Peccary

Pigskin from South American peccaries.

3.24 Morocco leather (Saffian)

A fine, glossy, and firm leather.

3.25 PU leather

A through-dyed split cowhide with a pressed or dyed surface.

4 Leather care

4.1 Basics

As with most items, lifespan depends on care—quality and care method both matter. Many care products exist; choice depends on leather type, production methods, age, use intensity, and environment. Avoid old household recipes; modern leathers are processed differently and need specific care—otherwise damage may occur.

4.2 Choosing care products

Many products are available across price ranges. Skipping care out of caution is the wrong approach—leather needs care. If unsure, test on a hidden spot. The higher the leather’s value, the higher the care quality should be.

4.3 Effect of care products

Care products’ synthetic composition prevents bacteria and mold from settling on or in the material. They often contain ingredients that preserve leather’s good properties.

4.4 Patina

Leather products undergo natural aging. Environmental influences or use can change color and surface structure—this is called patina, which forms on high-quality, biologically treated and tanned leathers. Colors may lighten in sunlight; liquids can darken areas; frequent use can create gloss or a scratched look. Metal parts also develop patina and change color. This vintage look is what many love about leather.

4.5 Leather milk

A thin emulsion of fats, oils, and water with an emulsifier for uniformity. Often refatting and renews UV resistance against fading. Its consistency lets it penetrate well.

4.6 Leather cream

Due to stabilizers, thicker than milk. Adheres well on the surface but doesn’t penetrate as deeply.

4.7 Leather grease

Strongly refatting; mainly for shoe care. Use only on smooth leathers, as it can leave permanent stains on open-pored types. Best for outdoor-use leathers. If the grease has fewer resins and waxes, breathability remains largely intact.

4.8 Leather oil

If leather is hardened or dried out, oil can restore suppleness. Do not use on open-pored leather. Apply thinly—too much oil can oversaturate.

4.9 Leather balm

Good for smooth leather. Excellent water- and dirt-repellent with an impregnating effect. Strong refatting plus resins and waxes can sometimes cause creaking.

4.10 Leather sealant

Protects the top color layer and minimizes abrasion and discoloration. Usually water-based; oil- and fat-free—ideal for newer leathers without refatting needs.

4.11 Leather impregnation

Solely to increase water resistance; does not replace a care product.

4.12 Saddle soap

An alkaline soap for cleaning leather, available solid or liquid.

4.13 Beeswax

A natural substance secreted by worker bees; suitable as a natural leather care ingredient.

4.14 Leather repair

Unlike faux leather, genuine leather can be repaired or refurbished. With proper care products and professional repair, beloved leather items can be brought back to life.